開(kāi)封又一新糖醋軟溜鯉魚(yú)焙面,是由“糖醋溜魚(yú)“、“焙面“兩道名菜配制而成。溜魚(yú)焙面是開(kāi)封的傳統(tǒng)名菜,也是豫菜之經(jīng)典。
歷史起源
“糖醋溜魚(yú)”歷史悠久,據(jù)《東京夢(mèng)華錄》記載:北宋時(shí)期,東京市場(chǎng)上已流行。它是以鯉魚(yú)尤以黃河鯉魚(yú)為上品原料,以過(guò)初步加工后,用坡刀把魚(yú)的兩面解成瓦壟花紋,入熱油鍋炸透。然后以適量白糖、香醋、姜末、料酒、食鹽等調(diào)料,對(duì)入開(kāi)水,勾加流水芡,用旺火熱油烘汁,至油和糖醋汁全部融合,放進(jìn)炸魚(yú),潑上芡汁即成。其特點(diǎn)是色澤棗紅,軟嫩鮮香,甜中透酸,酸中微咸;焙面細(xì)如發(fā)絲,蓬松酥脆。
1900年,清光緒皇帝和慈禧太后為逃避八國(guó)聯(lián)軍之難,曾在開(kāi)封停留。開(kāi)封府衙著名廚備膳,貢奉“糖醋溜魚(yú)”,光緒和慈禧太后食后,連聲稱贊。光緒稱之 “古都一佳肴”;慈禧高興地說(shuō):“膳后忘返”。隨身太監(jiān)手書(shū)一聯(lián):“溜魚(yú)出何處,中原古汴梁”,賜給開(kāi)封府以示表彰。
“焙面”以稱“龍須面”。據(jù)《如夢(mèng)錄》載:明代開(kāi)封每逢農(nóng)歷二月初二,所謂“龍?zhí)ь^”之日,為呈吉祥,官府、民間都以細(xì)面相贈(zèng),稱之為“龍須面”。起初面用水煮食,后來(lái),不斷改進(jìn),過(guò)油炸焦,使其蓬松酥脆,吸汁后,配菜肴同食,故稱“焙面”。
1930年前后,開(kāi)封名師最早將用油炸過(guò)的“龍須面”,蓋在做好的“糖醋溜魚(yú)”上面,創(chuàng)作了“糖醋溜魚(yú)帶焙面”名菜,深為顧客歡迎。將二者合而為一,既可食魚(yú),又可以面蘸汁,故別有風(fēng)味。其后,該菜逐漸傳開(kāi)。
Kaifeng Slide-fish and Baked-noodles
Kaifeng Slide-fish and Baked-noodles is a traditional delicious dish which has enjoyed a good reputation for a very long time. Baked noodles are also called baked Longxumian. According to the work, Rumeng Lu, in Ming and Qing Dynasty, in Kaifeng, at the 2nd day of the second lunar month every year, which was always called the day for Long raising up its head, people should eat dragon beard noodles boiled by hot water and send each other raw noodles. Later, people envelop this kind of noodles into baked noodles.
Kaifeng Slide-fish and Baked-noodles is actually composed of two dishes: sweet and sour slide fish and baked dragon beard noodles. It’s said that when Empress Cixi ran her way to Kaifeng, a famous cook dedicated these two dishes. The empress said that the fish fell asleep and would be cold and then covered it with the soft noodles. From then on, the dish slide-fish and baked-noodles earned its fame. Its great characteristics are red-color, delicate, fresh and fragrant; the noodles are as thin as hair, soft and crisp.
Kaifeng Slide-fish and Baked-noodles choose carps produced in the Yellow River, which are pure, fresh and fat. Cut them into corrugated shape on the two sides, fry them completely and add into sugar, vinegar, ginger juice and chopped green onion as well, then we can get a slide-fish preparing for the whole dish. s are o Kaifeng, a famous cook